Ypres

This morning we left our little Brugge hotel and caught the 7.30pm train to Ypres arriving in Ypres at 9.30am. We had booked ourselves on the 10am Salient Tour for the day exploring a number of First World War sites including  Passchendaele, a German war cemetery and their trenches,travelled along the Ypres high ground,Tyne Cot Cemetery the  Messine church, Essex Farm Cemetery and bunkers (for the wounded) where the poem In Flanders Field was written. We also crossed into France to a cemetery so as a kiwi couple could bury some replica medals in the ground for 2 Uncles that were buried there. It was a great tour, small with only 8 people.

Tony in a restored German trench.

We arrived back in Ypres about 6pm then checked in at The Albion Hotel. It was then time to walk to Menin Gate. This memorial displays the names of 54,896 soldiers of the British Empire who went missing in action.

Menin Gate.

The last Post is played at 8pm every day of the year here at Menin Gate

More than 150 military cemeteries were built in and around the city.

A senseless war.

Out and about in Brugge

We were out and about by 9am before the crowds of English that come across for the weekend and many others.The buildings here are like fairyland it's just beautiful with the sound of the horse and carts clip clopping along the old cobbled streets.

We took a tour through a Belgium brewery called De Halve Maan (the Half Moon) the only one left here in Brugge with over 1000 different beers and bottle over 4million litres a year.

We continued on our walk then took a boat ride on the canal through the centre of Brugge which was great.

It was now time to try a hot chocolate with real Belgium chocolate but I was disappointed with that then later a waffle which wasn't great either. So now we have been through the Belgium specialties.

We took a walk around the outer area of the centre where we saw people's homes all with their lovely old push bikes parked at their doors, leather seats and handlebars ~ Tony likens their houses to dolls houses.

Apparently the more steps you have on your roof the wealthier you are.

It was time to rest our weary legs, then found a tasty very cheap restaurant called The Chicken House. 

TGV to Brugge

At 10am we departed from Avignon on the TGV (fast train) to Brugge. What an enjoyable way to travel through the country just sit back and relax and take it all in. Our 1st stop was Lyon for all of 5min. North of Lyon the countryside was so picturesque with beautiful rolling farmland  intensive cropping white cattle and the occasional Chateau set amongst it along with pockets of trees throughout which adds to the beauty of the French countryside. Another stop at Charles de Gaulle (Paris) and by 2.30pm we were in Brussells ~ unbelievable to go so far in such a short time.  Brussells station is so huge and was so crowded we were rather overwhelmed by where and how to get to our platform for the last hour of our journey to Brugge with only 20mins to find it and queues of people on escalators etc. However we made it but jumped on the wrong carriage as many others did and ended up standing for the first 40mins as the isle was full of others standing and you couldn't move one way or the other. There must have been a carriage half empty somewhere. In no time we were in Brugge and its another one of those WOW places. It must be one of the nicest cities I've ever visited. We checked into our lovely little hotel which is so homely feels more like a B&B then headed out around the central walkway marked on our map. It's all lace, chocolate and beautiful shoe shops and not to forget the delicious Belgium beer. We stopped at a very popular beer restaurant where they sell 400 different beers. We just asked for a light beer. The weather is rather different here ~ only 16deg and its now raining so the raincoats are out.

The central square in Brugge

Avignon

This morning we checked out of our B&B and drove an hour to Avignon (the centre of Provence) where we returned our car. We took a taxi to our hotel which is just inside the walls of the old Roman City. Avignon is such an amazing place oozing with culture, art, museums, street entertainment and beautiful huge historic buildings.

A typical scene here in Avignon.

 We took ourselves on a walking tour winding our way through the old city following the markers. The Palace of the Popes a 14th century gothic palace is right near our hotel so we visited 25 rooms using an audio guide. Half a day here really isn't enough but better than nothing. Tomorrow we begin our train rides and head off to Brugge the last stage of our journey.

We're all castled out now so good timing for a change.

More around the Luberon

We started the day feeling slightly seedy after our big night.

After breky we set out to see our last 2 villages in the area. We visited Fountaine de Vaucluse a nice little town with the Sorgue river running through it and old moss covered water wheels. Then the afternoon was spent at Les Beaux a well preserved medieval fort with replica war machines. We walked up hill through the old streets with all its little shops then hired an audioguide and heard the history as we walked through the ruins of the old chateau on the top of the hill.

Looking back up to the ruins of the old Chateau which was carved into rock.

Then it was back to our B&B and compared notes with the other kiwis.

Sightseeing around the Luberon

Today we visited some villages in the area. The first village was Gordes the most famous hill village in Provence built entirely of dry stone.

Amazing selection of cheeses.

They had their weekly market in the streets so we browsed at that and bumped into the kiwis we had seen in Cappadocia  and who were also going to be staying at the same B&B as us. In the afternoon we visited a nearby village called Roussillon. An amazing village with its clay hills made up of a dozen shades of ocre from oranges, reds and yellows. A painters & photographers dream. Then we went on to the Abbey de Senanque founded in 1145 and is inhabited by monks. In the summer the Abbey is framed by lavender. Unfortunately it was only just bursting into flower so we didn't see it at its best. 

We arrived back at the B&B and met up with the kiwis and heard their travel stories. Then at 8pm the B&B had a French chef in for the evening and cooked up a beautiful 3 course meal for us all along with a different wine for each course. A great night was had by all and it was 1am by the time we went to bed.

Dinner at the B&B

Tony in the wine cellar at the B&B 

Off to Bonnieux

We said our goodbyes to Tim & Heidi around 11.30am and made our way through the beautiful Verdon Gorge a river canyon which is about 700m deep and 25km long ending at Monstiers (the most divine village built into a rock face )where there was an amazing lake. We stopped and watched young courageous people jumping from huge heights off the cliff faces.

I was standing on a bridge so this photo doesn't really show how deep it is.

We arrived in Bonnieux a small village in the Luberon where it's all vineyards and lavender which is all just bursting into bloom right now. We found our B&B about 3km out of the village amongst the vineyards ~ an amazing place. We went into the village for a meal which was delicious ~ had our first ever taste of truffles today.

Walking back to the car after dinner.

Last day in Mons

We've had a great day with Tim & Heidi. Late morning Tim drove us to the Mt Audibuerge ski field one of his favourite places. We climbed to the top of the ski field to a height of 1650m through lovely wild flowers and herbs it was divine and the views were incredible. From the top we could see the Mediterranean on one side and French Alps on the other. We sat at the top and enjoyed a yum picnic lunch that Heidi had put together along with a Rosé. Having photoheidi with us meant we had a lot of fun with the cameras along with Heidi's photographic eye. After making our way back to the bottom we watched a few people using the flying foxes that weave through the forest. So many different ones from beginners to experienced.

By now we were keen to stop for a beer but by 5pm nothing was open.

Mediterranean side

Having our picnic.

We headed back home and enjoyed a cold beer a lovely meal and an early night.

Day 6 in Mons

It was a quiet start to the day without the Shearers. Tony listened to the 2 rugby games on the iPad while I tidied the place up a bit. Tim & Heidi arrived home at lunchtime from their few days in Corsica. We sat down to a lovely lunch together. Heidi and I went for a walk to the top of the gorge while Tony did some mowing. On our way back we visited an old 92yr old lady who bought out the Ouzo for us. Then we took the short cut home via a cherry tree where we had a compulsory stop. Heidi wanted to photograph the moon so later we drove into Mons then walked up the hill above Mons. It was great looking down into Mons while it lit up for the night. 

Mons village.

Sitting up the hill with a wee Rose and nibbles waiting for the moon and the village lights to come on around 9pm.

Farewell Shearers

Well to day we had to say goodbye to our good old travel mates Jill & Tony. We've been travelling together for 37 days and have had a great time. We drove them to Nice where they had a hotel booked for the night. After they  checked in we walked along the Promenade then stopped for a drink on the beach. The swimming and water looked so inviting I was sorry not to have my togs. I knew this was my only opportunity so I just slipped off my dress and popped in. There were so many gorgeous females around no one would have bothered to notice.

After our farewells Tony & I drove back to Mons avoiding the toll roads so as we could see some new countryside.

It seemed strange back in Mons on our own~ very quiet.

Tony was keen to do something useful so he took on the rotary mower. Our car in the background.

Day 4 in Mons

During the night we had a huge thunder storm with some impressive lightning and heavy rain. The weather improved so after breky the 2 Tonys and I headed off for a good walk. By the time we returned it was time to go into Mons to the lovely little restaurant we had booked for Bens birthday ~ a very relaxed way to spend the afternoon. After arriving back at our wee house the day wasn't much good for anything else so now I'm lying back in this comfy hammock catching up on my blog.

This is Heidi's lovely little French country kitchen.

The outdoor balcony is where we have spent our evenings.

3rd Day in Mons

Today began with brunch again. Then later it was off to Mons to check out a nice restaurant for Bens birthday lunch the following day and restock the wine supply. Mons village consists of a green grocer, bakery, Post Office, hotel, Info Centre, Museum, Church, about 4 restaurants & a primary school.Forgetting that everything closes up from 1 till 3 in France we took a drive to Fayence about 20 min away and found a good size supermarket. Another lovely French town in the hills. We took a look around Fayence had a snack and headed back to our little house.

This is Tim & Heidi's house where we are staying.

I still haven't seen a wild pig yet but they certainly make a mess about the place if no one is in residence.

Exploring around Mons

Another relaxed start to our day. I headed out for an early morning walk with instructions in hand where to walk the half hour loop. You could get horribly lost here without a good map. After brunch the 2 Tonys and I spent most of the day in the car driving the little narrow roads that wind their way through the huge Gorges de la Siagne ~ quite hair raising. We found a nice swimming hole under an old Roman bridge. The water was like ice but I had to experience swimming in this beautiful gorge. It was so hot I just jumped straight in ~ 30 secs and my legs were aching from the cold water but it was a great way to cool down.

Listening to my gasping was enough to stop the guys from joining me.

We then travelled to a small village called St Cezaire another frightening narrow road with a drop into the gorge on one side.

We arrived home in one piece and settled in for the evening with more red wine. 

Our First day in Mons

It was a slow start to our day and a very warm one with temperatures around 35 - 40deg too hot for walking and exploring so we had a blob out day. 

We discovered the wild pigs had been in the bottom part of the woodland by all the freshly dug ground.

Jill & Tony drove to Nice airport to collect son Ben and on their return we managed to consume several very nice French wines.

Off to Mons

We spent the morning walking the old  walled Roman city of Arles ~ another amazing place. The rest of the day was spent driving to Mons. We took the motorway then exited at Fayence and after that it was a very narrow winding steep road that took us to the delightful village of Mons perched on a rock in the Upper Var at a height of 814m. Mons is the highest of the district of Fayence. After collecting the house keys from the local shop keeper in Mons we made our way to Tim & Heidi's delightful little French house in the woods about 6km out of the village ~ such a peaceful place with wild pigs that we are yet to see.

This was in a small village called Montauroux on the way to Mons. A typical village street that you drive your car down.

Goodbye to Castonet

Today we left our Penichette and took a taxi into Toulouse to pick up our rental car. A very educational drive from Toulouse to  Arles. Somehow we paid 3 times at the same toll gate even though we have a GPS. We travelled through mainly vineyard country but closer to Arles a lot of stone fruit & saw the famous Camarge horses on our way. We finally made it to this lovely town called Arles thanks to Heidi's recommendation. We found a Best Western Hotel which is great and we are just over the road from the walled Roman city which we will explore tomorrow. After checking in we headed off to the nearest bar to recover from our day back in the fast lane. Another great night out was had by all then off to bed.

Final day on the Canal

All good things come to an end. Today has been so hot about 30deg. We're actually quite pleased we didn't have that heat all week ~ it's not like you can jump in the canal for a cool off. We've had a fantastic week and travelled 118km in that time. I biked the canal for our final afternoon it was just magic with the shade from the Plain trees and smell of the countryside. The track was a sealed cycle track much improved from the narrow muddy bike tracks the precious days. I met our boat at Negra our final destination where we check out in the morning. Our supplies were sparse so we walked a km up the hill to the small village it was so divine with a tiny restaurant where we had a meal along with the Poms that had started out the same day as us and saw them on and off as we travelled the canal. It was such a fun night. 

It was like watching an English comedy with their accent and sense of humour.

The cutest little cottage on our way to the restaurant.

Day 5 on the Canal

We had a late start to our day with the weather looking very promising but it wasn't to last. 

Since we started out from Argens on the Mediterranian side we have been going up hill through the locks. Today we reached the  Roc lock at an altitude of 190 meters our highest point. From now we are are going down hill towards the Atlantic and we can't believe how much easier it is going down the locks ~ you hardly know anything is happening its all so gentle and without the mist from the canal water coming at you as you go up through the locks.

A typical lunch stop with wine cheese and pâté.

After lunch I biked a few kms along the canal track and caught up with the boat at a lock. We topped up with water before stopping in a quiet place for the night. Good timing as by then a steady rain had begun..

Castlenaudary

Another beautiful day to wake up to. Tony and I headed off on our bikes through the beautiful tidy farmland with wheat & sunflower crops as far as the eye could see along with an attractive mix of trees to go with it. We arrived in the small village of Alzonne 2km inland from the canal where we bought freshly backed bread. What a delicious variety of baking so tempting. Then off back to the boat for breky. When the lock opened we were on our way again.

 We had many locks to go through today with doubles,triples and our 1st four so the day was gone before we knew it. By now we had arrived in a town called Castelnaudary.

If we can't find the men at the supermarket the 1st place we look is in the wine isle ~ you can guarantee they're always there.

We were all badly in need of a beer and a few supplies so we walked into the town centre enjoyed a cool beer found meat & veg then a delicious salad at a small restaurant where we chatted with an Aussie couple and a lovely old English couple. After this we decided to make our way up the canal a little further for the peacefulness of the countryside. It was a great time to travel at dusk as the countryside had a different light across it. We tied up about 10pm in the quiet. 

Carcassonne

This morning we walked to the beautiful Medieval fortress city on the hill here in Carcasonne. 

What an amazing place we could have spent hours there. People live  there have their shops and restaurants. It's a good job our suitcases are at their weight limit you could have gone crazy.

The entrance to the Medieval city. 

We left Carcasonne around 3.30pm and headed along the canal until the locks closed at 7pm. The weather is great. I took my bike off the boat and cycled a few km along the canal and met our boat at the locks. It was great to have some exercise. We tied up alongside the canal at Alzonne and cooked up a tasty meal along with the red wine.

2nd day on Canal Di Midi

We headed up the canal and cooked breakfast as we meandered through the beautiful Plain trees that line the canal either side. This meant we could be first in line at the next lock. Most locks take 4 boats others only 3. 

Today is a much more relaxed day with a lot less locks to go through. The weather is slightly on the cool side with drizzle on and off. We stopped off in a small village for a quick bike ride and a few supplies then back on the canal heading to Carcassonne for the night. The day is now clearing and its now hot. We plugged into power and topped up with water then found a nice little place to eat.

Locks Locks & more Locks

After breakfast we set out to attempt our first lock. The lock keepers don't begin work until 9am so there's no chance of an early start. Due to the huge thunderstorm the previous night there was no power to open the first lock so we had a bit of a delay there. 

The canal is like driving through a sewerage pond without the stink. We were shocked to find out that not only our grey water but also our sewerage goes straight into the canal. You need plenty of hand sanitizer because you're handling the ropes all day . Having 4 people on the boat makes the whole job very easy and we've found it a breeze but there are a few poms around that havn't discovered how to use their thrusters. Today we travelled 24km and went through 8 locks some single others double and triple. It's great meandering through the countryside and seeing  the quaint little French villages as we go.There was no time for reading books or snoozing. The lock keepers finish for an hour over lunch so thats when we stopped and made our lunch with a nice French red wine.Our first nights stop was at Marseillette where we tied to the side of the canal.

Canal Du Midi

After a delicious breakfast at Novotel

where we stayed in Toulouse, we watched some of the All Black game then headed off to the railway station. We trained to Argens where we picked up our canal boat for a week. The train was a great way to view the countryside with some very attractive farmland and plenty of trees. The weather is now cool and showery for the weekend so the raincoats and merinos have been unpacked. It took some time to check in and go through all the instructions along with a test drive with our instructor. When the supermarket opened at 5pm we biked down to buy a few supplies then explored the tiny village of Argens by bike and found a fantastic place to eat that opened at 7pm. We had a great night in a thunderstorm undercover outdoors while our meat was cooked on a huge fire.

The thunderstorm made the night and made everyone mix.

Gearing up to fly our flags ready for  departure tomorrow morning. This is looming up to be yet another fantastic week.

Off to France

Today was a 5am start and we found our way to the Chania airport without a wrong turning. The guys did a practice run yesterday.

We were in 3 countries in one day ~ Crete, Rome then our destination in Toulouse where we arrived at 6.30pm a long day. The flights were only about 1 -2 hrs each time but 6hr wait in Rome

The crew filling in time at Rome airport while I explored from one terminal to the other.

Toulouse looks a lovely city but we won't have time to see it as we catch a train to pick up our canal boat tomorrow afternoon.

Last day in Chania

Today we decided to check out the area on foot. The 2 Tonys went to see the War Museum and found it was closed. I set off and checked out the local gardens which was a total mess & found a local market in the square. Later on Tony and I walked  out around the Old Venetian Harbour. Everywhere you go there are children busking on their small piano accordions and stand right over you when you're having a meal waiting for a hand out.

A few adults busking as well

Every now and then you hear military jet planes exercising overhead. I guess Syria is not that far away and could be the reason for their actions.

Tonight is our last night here in Chania. After our meal we set to and organised ourselves for an early start to the airport.

It's hard to capture this lovely old Venetian harbour in a photo.

Sightseeing around Chania

Today we drove ourselves to Suda  and visited the Commonwealth Cemetery where there are many NZers Aust & British soldiers.

We then drove through the step rugged rocky terrain through tiny villages tucked in the valleys to the other side of Crete where I paddled my feet in the Libyan Sea at a town called Paleochora. Crops seemed to be mainly olive trees through this area although we did see one village that was all tomatoes in huge cages covered in heavy plastic. The tomatoes here are huge and divine. The only animal life we've seen are goats ~ thats all that would survive here. We stopped for lunch in a tiny village where the Germans shot all the men and boys in the village after they won the battle of Crete.

Unfortunately the towns on this Southern side of Crete along the coast can only be reached by dirt tracks which we attempted by car but are actually marked for tramping only so we had to make our return trip on the same route back to Chania.

By the time we arrived back at our hotel it was 6.30pm time for a pre dinner drink and find a place for dinner.

Chania

A day to be remembered. We were on the road by 10am supposedly heading for Chania but spent the first hour heading back to where we came from the day before. We don't have Crete on our GPS so we are using a Greek one that is rather backward. Once we found our way we drove through the rocky steep terrain that only goats could survive on. We stopped off in this quaint little village for lunch. 

After a bit of a wander and refreshments we carried on to Chania. Once we arrived in Chania we spent another hour trying to find our accommodation. A great relief to be settled here in the old harbour at the Porto Veneziano hotel for the next 3 nights. 

View from the balcony of our room.

Matala

This morning our rental car was delivered to our hotel around 9am. We checked out and loaded the wee Hyundai with our luggage and off we headed through the hills across to the southern side of Crete. The valleys were full of very tidy looking plots of mainly grapes & olives. 

We found our hotel in a lovely little village called Matala on the coast right across the road from the beach. Unfortunately the winds are so strong it makes it a little unpleasant & cool enough not to be tempted to swim. 

Tony & I checked out the caves on the side of the bay and discovered it had been a Roman Cemetery.

Entrance to one of the tombs.

Looking across the beach to the tombs.

We then checked out the village and came across Jill & Tony enjoying a cold drink along the way so joined them for refreshments.

After that we walked up to the rock face behind the village and found a cave church which was very quaint then climbed the rocky hill a bit further to get the feel of the surrounding area.

Around this area through the valleys they grew a lot of fruit & veg under cover.

During our usual pre dinner drink we were entertained by surefooted goats skipping and chasing each other on the step rocky terrain. We then headed down the road for moussaka which Jill and I have had for the past 3 nights. After arriving back in our room we looked out the window to see the whole cliff face where the tombs are all beautifully lit up.